Chapter 10: In Colombia . . . .
There is no way to describe how different everything looked to me at first sight in Colombia. I had no way to reference almost any of the sights that I was seeing. Months later when people asked about Colombia, it was difficult for me to explain to them because of all of those differences. Colombia was like nothing I had experienced before. By the end, I had warm and longing feelings to the entire experience of being in Colombia, but I couldn’t then (and have a hard time now) explain the experiences.
The first person that I met after coming out of customs and hugging María was her father, Evaristo. At first sight, Evaristo seemed to be a very uptight individual. He had dark hair, thick black-rimmed glasses, a formal suit, a tie and manicured nails. He looked almost like Elvis Costello on his way to an awards ceremony. The only time that I remember seeing him without a tie was later when he went swimming with us. He was always impeccably dressed. I was nervous in seeing him to begin with being my father-in-law and everything, and the way that he looked all dressed up made it even worse. I summed up all of my courage and in my best broken Spanish said, “Yo ser mucho gusto de conocerlo” which literally is pretty close to “I am to be happy to meet you.” Instead of the serious response that I expected from a man dressed like he was, he cracked a large smile and gave me a big hug.
It didn’t take long to realize that in spite of the way that he looked, Evaristo was a loving and fun-loving man. Yes, he would always dressed very formally, but his sense of humor was incredible. On one occasion while we were driving through a rural portion of the country to get to one of the other cities, we were stopped by the regional national guard. They were stopping and searching all of the vehicles that were traveling down the highway. The wait was getting a little long especially since there were about 12 of us packed into a vehicle not much larger than a Jeep. Finally, Evaristo with his normal tie and suit jumped out of the back of the Jeep to confront the guard.
“Don’t you know who you are dealing with?” he yelled at the guards closest to us.
Neither the guards, nor any of the rest of us in the vehicle, knew how to react.
“You need to respond when you are addressed by a superior officer!” Evaristo continued without waiting for a response.
“Superior officer?” one of the guards started to ask.
"Of course, superior officer! Don’t you recognize me? I’m General Savereski and I’m trying to pass through here with my family. What are you idiots doing delaying us so long?”
Again, the guards were not sure how to respond.
“Haven’t your superiors trained you well enough to salute when a superior officer is present?” Evaristo did not let up for a second.
The guards immediately started to tremble and saluted quickly.
“I have my paperwork in order here,” Evaristo added grabbing some note paper that he had in his pocket. “These are in order and allow us quick passage, but you idiots continue to delay us. Stand at attention when I am addressing you!”
The guards immediately snapped to attention, each of them saluting Evaristo with worried looks on their faces. They didn’t even bother to ask to see the supposed orders that he quickly put back into his jacket pocket.
“What are your names, so I can take note and report to your superior officers?” he asked.
“Oh, please sir! Don’t do that! We’ll let your vehicle pass straight through in front of all of the rest of these cars. Don’t worry, sir! We didn’t realize that it was you.”
While Evaristo climbed back into the back of the vehicle and saluted the guards again, the rest of us had to bite our tongues in order to not bust out laughing. We drove for about a 1/2 of a mile before even the driver had to pull over to try and control his laughter. Evaristo’s serious looks and the seriousness with which he spoke to the guards left them with no doubt that he was who he claimed to be and that they were in serious trouble if they didn’t allow him to pass as quickly as possible. I seriously doubt that there ever was a General Savereski, but Evaristo sure made a believable one.
That was only one of many examples of how Evaristo’s looks and serious delivery had conned people into believing he was someone else. Darío showed us a videotape that he had made with Evaristo when the two of them posed as reporters from the US filming the Easter pilgrimage to one of the more religious cities. People stopped, combed their hair, straightened their clothes, and stood on their tippy-toes to look taller, while he interviewed them with made-up questions. Evaristo was a perfect example of how important it is to not take life so seriously, something that too many of us in the US tend to do on a regular basis.
After meeting Evaristo, I met the rest of the family that was there at the airport: María’s uncle Tito, aunt Maria Cristina and cousin Maria Juliana who had been at the wedding the year before; her aunt from her father’s side, Mercedes, who we all called Meti since María couldn’t say Merceditas when she was little; and Junior, Evaristo’s son from another woman. Junior had continued the tradition of being called Evaristo that went back over at least six generations that María has been able to track. His friends all gave him a hard time saying that he was the only one that they knew whose name was almost as ugly as he was.
The other interesting nickname that I ran into while there came the following day. One of Meti’s close friends that lived near was named Luis Fernando. Like most Luises in Latin America, his “official” nickname was Luigi. We all started calling him “Happy,” however, after one of the seven dwarves since he was just barely 5 feet tall. We would tell him that we called him “Happy” because he was smiling all of the time. He had no way knowing the real reason we called him like that. It was one of the few English words that I made sure that I used on a regular basis.
The month in Colombia was like a whirlwind for me. Every day there were new sights, new sounds, new smells, and new people to meet. And everywhere we went, the “normal” sized Colombians had to come up and measure themselves to the gringo giant. I was at least 12 inches taller than the average Colombian. I guess that it didn’t help matters much that I called even more attention to myself by carrying the white-haired Giancarlos around either on my back or on my shoulders. Every street we walked down people would rush up to measure themselves thinking that I could not or did not notice.
Even while we weren’t walking around town, I found a way to attract attention without wanting to. Being a large, metropolitan city of 3 million, Cali had multiple ways of mass transit. The cars were primarily French imported Renaults, i.e. tiny cars that my legs barely fit into. If I didn’t feel like squeezing my legs into a taxi, we could always take the cheaper buses. There were two types of buses driving around all of the streets in Cali, none of which are very well labeled. Basically, you had to know which of the different colored routes ran close to where you wanted to go and hop on one of those buses.
The larger buses were like leftovers school buses from the US. They had to be at least 20 years old and all spat out tons of pollution as they noisily drove around the city. The smaller version, called busetas, were like a combination of a regular bus and a van, sort of like the shuttles at some airports, only as old as the regular buses. They had the great disadvantage, for someone my size, of not being very tall inside. Basically, I had to bend over at the waist to be able to keep my head from poking through the roof. María, and everyone else in Colombia, was able to walk around and barely notice the roof, but not someone my size.
The best part about riding the buses was that no matter what time you were riding or where you were riding to, there would always be someone coming down the aisles saying somthing similar to, “Ladies and gentlemen, for your pleasure while riding the” whichever route you were on, “we will be entertaining you with the following little songs. All we ask, is a little financial cooperation to help us pay for the fine tuning of our top notch instruments.” The rickety instruments that they tended to play were obviously either homemade or found somewhere thrown away. The idea was that they were asking for money, but tried to provide a service while doing so.
I saw on a regular basis how people were striving to survive economically while living within a third world economy. Not only were people playing songs on the bus while asking for tips, they were selling individual pieces of gum and cigarettes at the stop lights. It was not as if there wasn’t enough jobs to do. Instead of like in the US, where you have to search sometimes to find someone to help you in stores, in Colombia there were people, sometimes more than one, around every corner, waiting to help you out. The problem was that none of the jobs seemed to pay enough. Even María’s uncle and aunt, who were university professors, had to take multiple positions at different universities in order to be able to survive. I was seeing things that I had never seen or imagined while living within the US.
My assumptions about a lot of things also changed a lot because of my ankle. I arrived to Colombia on crutches. Immediately, everyone had a solution. I had twisted my ankle enough times in my life to know that the best was to stay off of it as much as possible and wait for it to heal. Some of the others thought that I should have it X-rayed right away, “You never know.” I could understand this idea, it might be more serious than a simple sprain. Besides, I could get X-rays at one of the clinics in Cali for about $20. One of the other solutions was referred to as a sobadora. Literally, sobador comes from the verb sobar which means something close to massage. Unfortunately, the way that it was described to me did nothing to make me want to visit the sobadora. “Just a few quick jerks on your foot and then a rub down with the right herbs, and you will be as good as new!”
Just listening to the description made my ankle hurt even more, besides it made me think of a witch-doctor type person grabbing a hold of my foot. Needless to say, I decided that the X-rays were the course for me.
I went with María, the very next day to one of the clinics in Cali. We didn’t even need an appointment, we just showed up. In the US, your doctor refers you to the X-rays. A radiologist takes them, but you have to wait, sometimes a couple of days, before the doctor can “interpret” the X-rays to tell you what happened. In Colombia, the radiologist came to talk with me about 5 minutes after X-raying my ankle. I was happily surprised.
“Well, the good news is that you are pretty much healed,” he told me. “Give it a couple of more days without putting to much weight on it, and you’ll be fine. The bad news is that you had a hairline fracture.” With that, he took out the X-rays and showed me where the fracture had taken place. “You can also see right here, that you still have about 2 to 4 centimeters of growth in you.”
That’s where I thought that my broken Spanish had failed me. I was sure that the radiologist had told me, a 23-year-old who was already 6 foot 3 inches tall, that I was still going to grow. I double-checked with María.
“He says that you are still growing,” she clarified.
“There is no way that I could still be growing,” I thought to myself as I nodded to both Maria and the doctor. “Must just be one of those third world beliefs again.” How could he possibly tell that I was still growing from an X-ray of my ankle? No one, in the “obviously superior” US had ever said anything along those lines.
I looked, filled with doubt, at the X-rays and the line in my foot that he said showed that I still had growth. “These two lines will meet once you have stopped growing,” he said. Yeah right!
As we took a cab back to the house, I laughed with María, telling her about how backward medicine was here. Imagine, me, already a giant, growing more? No way was that going to happen. The funny part for is that the doctor was exactly right. Within the next 6 months I grew a little more than an inch, about 3 centimeters, exactly what the doctor had said. I went from 6 foot 3 at age 23 to 6 foot 4 at age 24. Maybe there was something to what the doctor had said. Maybe the medical system here in the US wasn’t the best way of treating patients. I had felt much more comfortable with the doctor in Cali, in spite of my limited Spanish, than I had felt for a long time in the US. On top of that, he didn’t seem like he was in a big hurry to get to the next patient. He actually chatted with us for a while before sending us on our way. I don’t remember having that ever in the US until later when I went out looking specifically for a doctor who would treat me as a person and not a number. Maybe there was something to how people lived in the third world after all.
It wasn’t just the doctors either. Everyone in Colombia seemed to be much happier than people in the US. Even without the modern conveniences in the US that you would think would lead to more leisure time, people were relaxing, talking, spending time together to interact in Colombia, even with people they didn’t know. I was warmly welcomed into multiple parties by people that I had never met before and treated as a long lost friend. It was as if the social interactions were the important part of the relationships. In the US, people were always too busy working to act like that, especially with someone they had never met before. People here are defined by what they do. No one in Colombia ever asked me what I did, or planned to do, for a living. Work seemed to be what provided economically, but it wasn’t the most important thing. Even the whole idea of a siesta was new to me. People in Colombia spent 2 to 3 hours with their family eating a REAL lunch before returning to work, and then, they were home to eat dinner again with the family.
All of these difference were refreshing for me. I felt “at home” in Colombia. All of these things left a long lasting impression that I still have today.

